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How Well Protected Are India’s Products Of Protected Origin?

July 3, 2025
10:20 AM
4 min read
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The use of a local sandal design by Prada has caused an uproar on Indian social media. While the fashion house did not break WTO rules, it raised ethical questions.

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business news

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July 3, 2025

10:20 AM

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Forbes

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THANE, INDIA - OCTOBER 9: Ankush Karande with help of his son make a six-feet long Kolhapuri Chappal

More out of Italian leather without using any machine, in an attempt to enter the Guinness Book of Records on October 9, 2018 in Thane, India. (Photo by Praful Gangurde/Hindustan Times via Getty Images)Hindustan Times via Getty Images The use of a traditional Indian sandal design by Prada has caused an uar on Indian social media

While the sandal style is tected under World Trade Organization rules as a geographical indication, the Italian fashion house did not actually break any rules by showcasing a design inspired by the Kolhapuri chappal during the Milan fashion week in June

However, ethical implications are still abound in the case that saw Prada struggle to appease a whole subcontinent

The Kolhapuri chappal features a strap over the foot’s arch and one around the big toe, both connected with another thin band

While Prada’s design also the traditional leather and embellishments, the company did not name its shoe a Kolhapuri chappal nor did it yet have plans to commercialize its haute couture item

Under GI rules, shoes called Kolhapuri chappal can only be sourced from predefined districts in Indian states Maharashtra and Karnataka where the footwear has been ven to have a long artisanal history and therefore can carry a tective designation of quality

This chart shows selected Indian ducts tected by WTO geographical indication as of 2025, by

More state/Union Territory

Statista Prada in a statement acknowleged that its sandal’s design was inspired by Indian traditional footwear from the aforementioned regions, which according to The New York Times is also permissible under WTO rules

The company said it was open to “meaningful exchange" with Indian artisans, showing not only how much considerations around cultural appriation and giving due credit have arrived in the Indian main, but also how global companies have gotten used to taking these concerns seriously

Yet, geographic designations set by the WTO are not ving very wide-ranging, being significantly weaker than a trademark companies can obtain

Geographical indications are common all over the world, with the best-known examples Parmesan cheese, Parma ham or Champagne from the French Champagne region hailing from Europe

But India has also tected a number of its culturally significant ducts using this system

Notably, traditional handicrafts feature heavily among India’s tected designations in addition to food ducts

MORE FOR YOU Parmesan Cheese & The Kolhapuri Chappal Most well-known internationally are bably the Indian GI for Darjeeling tea from the state of West Bengal and Basmati rice from several northern Indian states

The latter one showcases another issue often associated with geographical indications—disputes

Pakistan also lays claim to the traditional cultivation of Basmati rice in its regions neighboring India and has applied for a GI tag as well

That Basmati rice traditionally comes from India and Pakistan has already been recognized in some jurisdictions New Zealand and Australia

India also tects several types of mango, including Banganapalle mango from the state of Andhra Pradesh, as well as the Lasalgaon onion from Maharashtra, the Khola chilli from Goa and Nilambur Teak from Kerala

It has given out GI to varieties of grapes, strawberries, beans and pomegranates as well

Concerning handicrafts and textile making, silk and its ducts are tected in several Indian regions, for example Muga Silk from Assam, Uppada Jamdani sarees from Andhra Pradesh or Banarasi sarees from Uttar Pradesh

But Pashmina shawls from Jammu & Kashmir/Ladakh, Kutch Embroidery from Gujarat, Chendamanglam Dhoties from Kerala and Madhur Kathi mats from West Bengal also fall into this category

More unusual GI include Tamil Nadu’s Dindigul lock, referring to traditional handmade locks from the city of Dindigul, as well as Goa’s Feni spirit made from cashew apples or coconut